As the sun and spring return to Perth, bringing with them the promise of long, lazy afternoons on sun-drenched terraces, one might expect the city's restaurant scene to be at its most vibrant and welcoming. However, a recent experience at a beachside venue in Floreat has left me questioning the direction in which Perth's hospitality industry is heading. This cautionary tale serves as a reflection on the changing face of eating out in our city and the potential consequences of prioritising technology and efficiency over the human touch that once defined the hospitality industry.
Recently returned from France, I was eager to recreate a bit of that European terrace culture - sharing oysters and fresh food in the open air with a "special friend", engaged in lively conversation against the backdrop of the Indian Ocean. The stage seemed set for a perfect afternoon.
The Shock of the New
Upon arrival, the first jarring note was struck: the absence of table service on the terrace. No warm welcome, no friendly face to guide us to our seats or offer a menu. Instead, we were left to our own devices - quite literally. Going to the desk, a waiter, though kind, informed us with a serious tone that all orders must now be placed via QR code or at the counter.
As someone who values the opportunity to disconnect from technology and fully engage with my tablemate, this felt like more than just an inconvenience. It struck me as a fundamental misunderstanding of why people choose to eat out. When I expressed my desire to liberate my spirit from my mobile phone and my belief that it's impolite to use devices at the table, I was met with an unyielding response: "This is the new rule, Sir. Sorry about this."
The Erosion of Service
The issues compound. When we asked for water, we were directed to help ourselves from a fridge. When we attempted to modify our order from glasses to a bottle of rosé, we found ourselves trapped by the inflexibility of the digital system. The personal touch that allows for last-minute changes or special requests had vanished, replaced by an impersonal transaction that felt more like online shopping than dining out.
The culmination of this digital debacle came with the arrival of our food. Despite specific instructions about timing and preparation, all dishes arrived simultaneously, with oysters that were past their prime and a kangaroo steak overcooked that becomes cold while eating our starter. The magic words "please enjoy" were conspicuously absent, as was any semblance of the attentive service one expects when paying a premium for a dining experience.
The (French) Devil in the Details
The true measure of a lunch or dining experience often lies in the details, and it was in these details that our meal truly faltered. Consider the oysters, a dish that should exemplify freshness and careful handling. Once priced at a reasonable $5 each, they now commanded $7 apiece - a 40% increase that raised expectations correspondingly. As someone well-versed in European oyster traditions, I specifically requested fresh, unshucked oysters to be opened just before serving. This crucial note, however, was lost in the digital shuffle. What arrived were clearly pre-shucked, lifeless oysters - a far cry from the briny delicacy one expects, especially at such a premium price point.
The wine service, or rather the lack thereof, further underscored the erosion of hospitality basics. Our bottle of rosé ($85) arrived unceremoniously in an ice bucket, placed in the center of the table along with two glasses. There was no presentation of the bottle, no opportunity to taste and approve the wine, no pouring service - elements that not only add to the experience but serve practical purposes in ensuring customer satisfaction. The simple phrase "please enjoy," a small but significant gesture of hospitality, was conspicuously absent.
These may seem like minor grievances to some, but they represent a fundamental shift away from the principles of good service. In a quality establishment, even one embracing modern ordering systems, these personal touches should remain sacrosanct. They are the very essence of what separates dining out from merely consuming food in a public space.
The Price of Progress?
For the princely sum of AUD 230, we received subpar food, non-existent service, and an experience that left a bitter taste far beyond the disappointing oysters. The irony of increased prices (20-25% on food and wine) coupled with a 1.8% credit card surcharge and the complete elimination of table service was not lost on me. It begs the question: what exactly are we paying for?
The Road Ahead
As Perth's restaurant scene evolves, it's crucial that we don't lose sight of what makes dining out special. Technology should enhance, not replace, human interaction. Efficiency should not come at the cost of quality and care.
To the restaurateurs of Perth, I implore you to consider:
- The value of a warm welcome and a fond farewell
- The importance of flexibility in service
- The need for staff training that emphasises hospitality as much as operational efficiency (and I'm heartened to see several promising initiatives already underway in this area)
- The potential for technology to support, rather than supplant, personal service.
A Worrying Trend
Most importantly, and unfortunately, this experience is not isolated. Many Perth diners are encountering similar issues across various venues. I'm acutely aware of the challenges facing the hospitality industry - the shortage of skilled staff, the difficulty in retaining employees, and the pressures of inflation. However, in trying to address these issues, Perth's hospitality scene risks destroying the very magic that makes eating out special: the combination of service, smiles, and quality that transforms a meal into an experience.
Conversations with friends have revealed a troubling trend: many are simply giving up on dining out, or deliberately choosing venues where they don't expect attentive service, effectively lowering their expectations to avoid disappointment. This shift in consumer behavior is concerning. While we may not be Paris, we shouldn't use that as an excuse for subpar service. In fact, the continued opening of new venues in Perth's restaurant scene, without addressing these fundamental issues, risks creating a vicious cycle that will only further erode the quality of service.
A Call to Action
To break this cycle and move forward, we need a concerted effort from all stakeholders in the industry. Restaurateurs must prioritise the value of a warm welcome and a fond farewell, embrace flexibility in service, and invest in staff training that emphasises hospitality alongside operational efficiency. Patrons, for their part, should voice their expectations and support venues that maintain high standards and value personal service. We mustn't allow the bar to be lowered to the point where we forget what good hospitality feels like. The broader hospitality industry should strive to use technology to support, rather than supplant, personal service, finding innovative ways to deliver quality experiences even in challenging times.
The path forward isn't about mimicking Paris or any other culinary capital, but about rediscovering and reinventing what makes Perth's dining scene unique and appealing. If we can achieve this, Perth has the potential to not just recover its hospitality mojo, but to become a standout destination for dining experiences that are both distinctly local and world-class.
The future of Perth's restaurant scene hangs in the balance. Let's hope that by recognizing these challenges and actively working to address them, we can reverse this troubling trend and restore the joy of dining out in our beautiful city. It's time we rekindled the spark that makes hospitality truly hospitable!